Château Rives-Blanques
A catch up with Jan and Caryl Panman at Château Rives Blanques
in Limoux last week over the 2015 vintage, with which they are very
pleased. Caryl described it as a
surprising vintage. May and June were
hot, while August was cooler, which slowed down the ripening. And the summer was mainly dry, with a little
rain. They began picking at the end of
August, and finished the harvest a week before it even began in 2014. Who said the Languedoc has consistent
vintages? One of the problems of 2015
was the difficulty of getting pickers together earlier than usual.
2013 Crémant de Limoux - 12.7€
Chardonnay and Chenin blanc, 2 years on lees. Just 1
gm/l dosage
Delicately rounded and creamy, with fresh acidity on the finish. A lovely glass of wine.
2014 Blanquette de Limoux - 12.75€
100% Mauzac, although the appellation states a minimum of
90%. One year on lees, versus 9 months
in the regulations. No dosage. The label portrays the calligraphy of the
oldest document mentioning the sparkling wine of Limoux.
Quite fresh herbal notes on nose and palate. Nicely creamy with good fruit. The same price as Crémant, as it takes
as much effort to make. The Panmans
definitely do not see their Blanquette as a lesser product.
2014 Crémant de Limoux rosé - 13.65€
This includes just 4% Pinot Noir to give the delicate pink
colour. Delicate but firm on the nose
and palate, with more structure. It is amazing how much difference just a
little Pinot Noir can make to the structure of the wine, as well as providing
some lovely hints of raspberry fruit.
There was been some modification to the appellation rules for Crémant, with some fine-tuning of the permitted percentages. Apparently some people wanted to introduce mechanical harvesters, which was not allowed, (phew!) and others were lobbying for single variety sparkling wine, but that was not allowed either.
There was been some modification to the appellation rules for Crémant, with some fine-tuning of the permitted percentages. Apparently some people wanted to introduce mechanical harvesters, which was not allowed, (phew!) and others were lobbying for single variety sparkling wine, but that was not allowed either.
And now on to still wines:
2015 Vin de Pays Chardonnay and Chenin. 7.65€
The grapes are mechanically harvested at night and fermented in
stainless steel. Light and delicate with good acidity, making for easy
drinking.
2015 Occitanie Mauzac - 12.75€
From sixty year old vines, grown on clay and limestone. 5% of the Mauzac is fermented in new barrels
to provide a little more body and weight.
A light golden colour, with a rounded slightly herbal nose and quite
soft fruit on the palate. The grapes are
picked four weeks later than for Blanquette.
2015 Chenin Dédicace - 12.75€
Pale colour. Dry honey on both
nose and palate. A nicely rounded
palate, with good balancing acidity and youthful honey notes. Very harmonious balance and promising a long
life.
10% is fermented in new barrels, but from four different coopers
Odyssée Chardonnay - 12.75€
This is their biggest selling still wine, of which they produce
20,000 bottles p.a. as opposed to 8000 for the other still wines. Depending on the vintage, 15 - 20% of the
grapes are fermented in new wood. There
is a hint of vanilla on both nose and palate, with some rounded buttery fruit
balanced by acidity on the palate. Quite
youthful and firm. Nicely ripe and balanced,
with good acidity and ripe fruit. The
various plots are kept separate, which makes for variations at blending.
2015 Limoux - 12.75€
They describe this as an easy drinking restaurant wine.
Quite rounded with some balancing freshness. A touch of oak, and a herbal note. Quite intriguing.
2015 Trilogie - 25.00€
A blend of the best barrels each year, making just 1-2000 bottles
per year. They taste each barrel each
month and see how things are developing.
Lots of nuances and depth with balancing acidity and structure. Quite a firm youthful finish. Definitely a wine that will develop in
bottle.
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