More white wine from the Languedoc
A PS to my blog of last week about white wine with some more
delicious examples.
Notes Pures, Pays de Caux – 12.00€
Firstly, a visit to my friend Christine at the relatively new
estate of Domaine Ste Cécile du Parc outside the village of Caux. She and her husband Stéphane bought the
property in 2005 and found that their vineyards already included a planting of
Sauvignon Blanc, but they really needed to plant some more white vines, so they
decided to follow the advice of their Chilean oenologist and augment the
Sauvignon Blanc with some Sauvignon Gris, which is very much rarer in the
Languedoc. Indeed, I do not know of
anyone else with that variety. Does
anyone? And the resulting blend, half of
each variety, is delicious. A small
proportion of the wine is aged in barrel, but the oak is very nicely integrated
and both nose and palate have the fresh pithy minerality that is the benchmark
of Sauvignon blanc, without the blowsiness that you sometimes find in Languedoc
Sauvignon, with an extra je ne sais quoi, that comes from the Sauvignon Gris.
2016 Domaine de Joncas,
Alba, Pays de Mont Baudile – 22.00€
Domaine de Joncas is a relatively new estate in Montpeyroux,
beginning with Joia a red wine in 2011 and now there are two white wines in the
range. With great imagination and taking
advantage of the liberty of the Languedoc, Pascal Dalier planted Rhine Riesling
and produced Canta. Pascal had a hunch
that Riesling might work on his terroir and indeed it does, with some
dry honey and firm acidity, but I prefer his more traditionally languedocien
Alba which is pure Grenache Gris that is aged in concrete eggs. There is structure and minerality and firm
acidity and some floral notes, and the vineyards are up in the limestone hills
above Montpeyroux, near the canyon of Joncas after which the estate is named.
2015 Mas Bruguière, les Mûriers, Languedoc
Blanc
We tend to treat the Bistro d'Ariane at Lattes as our departure
lounge as it is only ten minutes from Montpellier airport. And that is where we were at end of last
week, softening the return to
London with a delicious lunch, a very original tabbouleh, made
not with couscous but with finely chopped cauliflower, and then a dish of cod
with generous quantities of garlic and white beans. And to wash all that down we opted for a
bottle of 2015 Mas Bruguière, les Mûriers blanc, a
satisfying blend of Roussanne and Marsanne from a leading Pic St. Loup
producer. Pic St. Loup is only ever red,
so this is appellation Languedoc. The flavours
of white blossom were wonderfully satisfying with texture and mouthfeel on the
palate and just a hint of oak. It was drinking
deliciously and would continue to develop for several years.
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