Pays d’Oc Collection 2017
The former Vin de Pays d’Oc, now just called Pays d’Oc, has clocked up thirty years and the initial offering of 24 grape varieties (9 red
and 15 white) has grown to an extraordinary 58, which illustrate the rich diversity
of the south of France. Pay d’Oc also
accounts for half the production of the entire Languedoc. Among the grape varieties, there are the
classics of the Languedoc, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre. Surprisingly perhaps, Carignan has only
recently been accepted as a single variety, illustrating that it was once
despised and is now enjoying a huge revival in its fortunes. There are of course the varieties of Bordeaux,
Cabernets, Merlot, a growing amount of Petit Verdot, as well as previously
spurned varieties like Aramon and Alicante.
For whites, Sauvignon and Chardonnay are important, as well as ever
growing amount of Viognier; Terret Blanc and Carignan Blanc are making a comeback,
and the latest newcomer is Albariño.
Each summer the annual Collection is chosen to represent the Pays d'Oc and illustrate its quality for the ensuring 12 months. In 2017, 28 wines were chosen, and what
follows are some of the highlights.
2016 Domaine la
Fadèze, Terret Blanc.
Light colour; a light fresh pithy nose and on the palate
lightly rounded with some stony fruit. A
fresh finish. No great depth, but an
eminently drinkable glass of wine.
2016 Sauvignon, Famille Guilhem-Malviès
This comes from the Malepère, one of the cooler regions of
the Languedoc. Light colour, and a light
stony nose, and on the palate very good varietal character, with firm acidity
and stony mineral fruit. For a southern Sauvignon,
it is not too ripe
2016 Premier Rolle, Domaine d’Aigues-Belles
A Rolle or Vermentino from the eastern Languedoc, close to
the Pic St. Loup. A rounded nose, with
texture and weight on the palate, balanced with acidity. A touch of oak slightly flattens the finish,
but nonetheless a sound example of the grape variety.
2016 les Jamelles
Gewürztraminer
Light
colour. Very perfumed Nivea cream
nose and on the palate opulent perfumed fruit, with the benchmark Gewürztraminer
spice, balanced by good acidity, and a hint of sweetness on the finish. Classic varietal character.
2016 Domaine
Ventenac, Cuvée de Marie, Colombard Chenin
Light colour and a fresh nose. A fresh pithy palate with a hint of honey,
good acidity and a rounded finish. From Cabardès,
so a cooler area where Colombard performs well. You more commonly find it in Côtes de
Gascogne.
2016 Le Versant Viognier
This was my favourite of the various Viognier, with some
peachy fruit balanced, with good acidity.
Medium weight
2016 Solas, Albariño, Laurent Miquel
Laurent Miquel is successfully pioneering Albariño in the
Languedoc, at Domaine les Auxines in the hills up above the village of
Lagrasse. This has some understated but convincing
varietal character on both nose and palate, with distinctive peachy notes.
2016 Domaine
Rives-Blanques, 90% Chardonnay - 10% Chenin blanc.
Light colour, A
delicate nose and a rounded palate, with balanced acidity. Nicely crafted and understated. Easy drinking
2016 Villa Blanche, Chardonnay, Calmel and Joseph
This was the best of the Chardonnays, with a light colour, a
lightly buttery nose and a rounded palate, with mouthfeel and texture and some
leesy notes. Very satisfying.
Sadly, my bottle of Domaine Gayda’s Chenin blanc Figure
Libre was corked, but the Cabernet Franc Figure Libre from Domaine Gayda was delicious. Cabernet Franc performs really well in the
south, and this had some ripe cherry fruit on nose and palate, with supple
tannins. A wonderful explosion of fruit
that leapt out of the glass, balanced by a restraining streak of tannin.
There were a pair of Pinot Noir, showing that in certain
parts of the Languedoc, Pinot Noir can be very successful. Laurent Miquel’s 2016 Solas was light in
colour, with fresh perfumed fruit on the nose and palate, with some acidity and
tannin. It made a refreshing drink
without any great depth.
2016 Pinot Noir, Anne de Joyeuse
This is from the smaller of the two Limoux cooperatives, a
wine with more structure, deeper in colour with ripe fruit and some oak on the
palate, with more tannin and depth.
2016 Les Yeuses,
Marselan and Cabernet Franc
Deep young colour, with some rounded spice. Very supple, with soft tannins, for easy
drinking. Goes a hint jammy on the
finish.
Among the Bordeaux blends, I like Anne de Joyeuse, 2016 Merlot
Cabernet Sauvignon, with rounded fruit, and a firm tannin streak. Nicely balanced.
There were a pair of Petit Verdot, of which I preferred
Domaine de Valensac, 2015, Entre Nous, with a deep colour, some spice on the
nose and a structured palate. It was
elegant and fresh.
And best of the Syrah was Domaine les Yeuses, 2015, with
some peppery fruit on the nose and medium weight with accessible uncomplicated
fruit on the palate. A cheerful glass of
the warm south.
Comments
I remember about 15 years ago and American importer (who also now owns a vineyard in the Roussillon) told me that in his opinion Carignan can be terrible if it is from young vines grown on the vallet floor, but outstanding if it is from old hillside-grown vines. I've often been a fan of carignan, but recently had one that I thought put pretty much all others to shame. It was 100% carignan from the Cotes du Rhone appellation, which I didn't realize even allowed 100% carignan in that AOP.
Next came an originality, a pure Aramon, from bush vines planted in 1910. Even at that age it gives a crop of 35 hl/ha, but when the vines were young, they would have produced a 100 hl/ha or more. The Aramons Centenaires, Vin de France, has some fresh fruit, a streak of acidity as well as tannin and a nicely perfumed note, as well as a hint of sympathique rusticity.
And I am sure I have had another rather good one from somebody else, but can't quite remember who at the moment.
As to what is next for revival: There's always Chatus, but I think that it has always been obscure, given its small geographical limit (but it's one I've really liked). Same for Mondeuse Blanche in the Savoie.
And what about Clairette and Carignan blanc in the Languedoc?