Domaine de la Rencontre
Since their first vintage in 2010 Pierre and Julie Viudes have established themselves as the leading producer of the small appellation of Muscat de Mireval. Mireval is sometimes overshadowed by neighbouring Frontignan and the two appellations are very similar. Local politics account for the differences.
I had last seen Julie at Montpellier airport in early March 2020 when we were both leaving France in a hurry as President Macron closed the country down. So another visit was well over due. The range of wines has been extended. I marvel that they can make ten different wines from the same grape variety, but they can. And all very individual they are too. They had looked to make some red wine, but the circumstances were never quite right. Nowadays they own seven hectares and rent five, all Muscat à petits grains. They have been registered organic since 2021.
NV Esprits Libres, Vin de France - 15€
A sparkling wine based on the 2018 vintages, aged on the lees. 12 - 10 gms/l residual sugar. Quite golden in colour. Grapey soft honey on the nose. Quite rounded and honeyed. Softly ripe with a streak of acidity and rounded weight on the palate.
2022 Rencontre. Pays de l’Hérault
A little colour. dry grape nose. Firm fresh and mineral. A lightly bitter touch on the finish, typical of Muscat.
2023 Rencontre - 13€
Lighter colour. Drier and more concentrated. Elegant and fresh with a firm dry finish. An interesting comparison of the two vintages.
2023 L’Intuition, Pays de l’Hérault - 14.00€
Demi-sec with 10 gms/l sugar. They stop the fermentation by chilling at the desired level of sweetness and then filter. No oak. Bottled a week earlier. So still not very settled. Slightly deeper colour. Elegantly ripe and honeyed on both nose and palate. More weight than the dry wine, but not really sweet. A honeyed bitter finish, with good length.
2022 L’Altruiste, Pays de l’Hérault - 15.00€
Fermented in oak and aged for a further six months with some bâtonnage. 14° Lightly golden. Dry but rich, with some elegant honeyed notes, tempered by a hint of well integrated oak.
2022 Philosophe, Pays de l’Hérault 13°
A little colour. Grapey honeyed fruit on the nose and quite a sweet palate. Ripe and rounded with classic Muscat bitterness on the finish.
2016 Poète , Pays de l’Hérault- 13.5°
Julie described 2016 as a fabulous year. So was 2015. The first vintage of this wine was 2014. Made from dried grapes, the last but one picking of the harvest, so they are really ripe with a little pourriture noble. Very golden. Very ripe nose. Lovely honeyed fruit. Very youthful. Nicely evolved but not ageing. Drinking really nicely. Reminds me more of Sauternes than Muscat. Quite delicious.
2021 L’Hedoniste Vieilles Vignes, Muscat de Mireval - 17.00€
110 gms/l - 16° Old vines in this instance means as much as 96 years old. The vines have deep roots and that gives minerality to the wines and balances the sugar. Light colour. Salty honey on nose and palate. Elegant sweetness. Julie observed that it needs more bottle age,. Tastes very balanced and you are certainly not aware of the added alcohol of a vin doux natural. Very harmonious and complete.
2021 Eclat, Muscat de Mireval - 15.00€
This comes from younger vines, or rather middle-aged wines, about 40 years old. And makes a fascinating comparison. Firmer nose, but with more honey and obvious sweet concentration on the palate. 114 gms/l and 15.5°
2021 Sagesse, Pays de l'Hérault
Late harvest, the last grapes to be picked at the end of a six week harvest. They usually begin the harvest towards the end of July and finish at the beginning of September. 16° Very golden colour. More liquoreux than usual. Some pourriture noble. Ripe honeyed fruit, with great depth, Very harmonious.
2016 L’Apogée, Vin de France - 35€ for 50 cls. 18.5°
Essentially they reduced three barrels down to one, so that the wine is a rancio. It is not fortified, but concentrated in flavour, with dry nutty notes and some Muscat honey. It has only just been bottled and is possibly not quite settled down from the bottling. Rancio notes, but sweeter or richer than the traditional Rancio from Roussillon, but with a dry finish. 26 gms/l I racked my brains wondering who makes a rancio from Muscat in Roussillon.
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