Domaine de la Dourbie
The Serin family, father Bernard, with two sons Emmanuel and Nicolas, bought Domaine de la Dourbie back in 2003. I had visited it quite a while ago, before I started writing my blog, so another visit was well overdue. My old friend Alex Francis - we met at a wine fair in Chablis more years ago than either of us care to admit - works with the estate and arranged the visit. He runs a very tempting wine shop in Carcassonne, as well as an export business - see an earlier post. The history of the property goes back to 1781, when the cellars were built.
We were welcomed by Marie who is responsible for oeno-tourism and marketing. First she took us for a walk around, with its lovely gardens, with a lake and rose gardens, and a vegetable garden. They have sixty hectares of vines in all, with a core of 30 hectares, providing their sélections parcellaires, from twenty hectares around the estate, three on an old volcano at Aspiran and another twelve at Rouveyrolle, some 15 kilometres away. There is Terret Blanc, Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and for reds, the classic five of the Languedoc, Cinsault, Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Carignan. They farm organically and were officially registered in 2009. They fit into neither Grés de Montpellier nor Terrasses de Larzac, but are on the edge of each, making them appellation Languedoc. However they prefer the freedom of Pays d’Hérault. The river Dourbie flows close by, and so does the Hérault.
We looked the vineyards close by. There is irrigation for the youngest vines, but they prefer not to use it. And we talked about missal selection for replanting, and agriculture forestière and the importance of trees. Although the vines were looking healthy in late May, the season is problematic, with some hail and some frost, and with the prevailing rain and humidity, they were worried about mildew.
The cellar is well equipped with concrete vats and thermo-regulated stainless steel vats. There are a couple of tronconic vats for fermentation and élèvage and a separate ageing cellar, with barriques and demi-muids and some eggs. Some of their barrels are acacia and some a mixture of oak and acacia, maybe with acacia tops and oak bodies, or vice versa. And there are three large foudres. Each grape variety is vinified separately.
We tasted our way through a very complete range of wines in the very smart tasting area. You do sense that the Languedoc is beginning to wake up to the benefits of wine tourism.
2022 Tuf, Pét Nat, Vin de France - 18€
Pure Terret Bourret, grown on the basalt volcanic soil at Aspiran. The name Tuf, or tufa has volcanic associations. They vinify it like a white wine, but keep some frozen juice which is added at bottling, so that there is a second fermentation. The colour is light and the nose firm and stony, and the palate is quite severe, with firm stony fruit, with just a hint of sweetness on the finish.
2023 Oscar Rosé, Pays d’Hérault - 9.50€
Named after a great grandfather. A blend of 50% Cinsault, 30% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Pale orange pink colour. Delicate raspberry fruit on the nose, and on the palate firm and dry with quite a vinous finish. Firm and fresh, with just a little weight on the finish.
2022 LAVQ Rosé, Pays d’Hérault - 17.00€
40% Cinsault, and 30% each of Mourvèdre and Grenache. The name is a play on words, Elle a vécu - or she has lived….. the wine has been aged in acacia and oak barrels. Pale colour, with a rounded nose. It contrasts with Oscar, with more weight and body, and some firm acidity. A food rosé. And we then tried the 2023 vintage for a comparison. It is more restrained, firm, with fresh fruit, and with less weight in the mouth. That will come with a little more bottle age.
2023 Oscar Blanc, Pays d’Hérault - 9.50€
Pure Terret, with firm stony vivacity. The palate is rounded with good acidity, some citrus notes and some salinity. Quite a severe finish. I liked its purity and vivacity.
2023 Marius Blanc, Pays d’Hérault - 14.00€
Named after a grandson. A blend mainly of Grenache Gris, with some Terret Blanc. Several of the labels are very floral, flowers from the garden, observed Marie. The palate was floral too, with texture and mouthfeel and a dry finish, with elegant concentration.
2022 Mala Coste, AOP Languedoc - 20.00€
From the valley of Rouveyrolle. The exposition is north, which would have been considered a bad thing, or a bad slope in the past. Now of course, with the warming climate, it is a good thing. The wine is a blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Terret Blanc, from old vines between 50 and 80 years old. Even the Roussanne is 50 years old, which I must admit, surprised me. It has been aged in egg - 15%; in barrels - new - 75% and barrels of one wine - 25% - and 10% in vat.
A little colour. some oak on the nose. Rounded and textured with good acidity. Lightly floral fruit, with satisfying weight and some floral notes and a hint of youthful oak.
2021 Intemporal Blanc, Pays d’Hérault - 35.00€
A selection the best of the oldest Grenache Gris from the valley of Rouveyrolle, and only made in the best years. Ageing one third in new oak; one third in oak of one wine and one third in an egg for 20 months.
The oak is not so well integrated on the nose in this wine, but the palate is much better, with good texture and a fresh backbone of acidity and tannin.
2023 Oscar Rouge, Pays d’Herault - 9.50€
A blend of 25% Cinsault, 50% Carignan and 25% Syrah, kept in stainless steel and concrete. Medium colour. Ripe fruit on both nose and palate. Ripe and easy with a tannic streak. Slightly jammy but making for easy uncomplicated drinking.
2022 Marius Pas de l’Herault - 14.00€
A blend of 50% Cinsault, and 25% each of Grenache and Syrah. Aged in foudres for ten months. They particularly like Cinsault, describing it as le Pinot Noir du Sud, and there is no doubt that Cinsault does have some lovely fragrant fruit, fully justifying that epithet.
Medium colour. Perfumed red fruit on both nose and palate. Supple and subtle; elegant with a fresh finish. In other words , quite delicious.
2023 Joseph, Pays d’Hérault - 17.00€
After a grandfather. Pure Carignan, kept in foudre for ten months. One third whole bunch fermentation and two thirds destemmed.
Good colour. Quite a firm nose. Quite solid and rounded, with some fleshy fruit softening the tannins. Ripe nuances. A fresh tannic steak and even some acidity. Rounded fruit. Very harmonious and balanced, with youthful potential. I liked this a lot.
2021 Mala Costa,Languedoc - 20.00€
A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. There was no Cinsault in the blend in 2021, thanks to hail. 18 months ageing in foudres.
Medium colour. Ripe rounded spicy nose and palate. Supple tannins with some weight. Notes of the garrigues. Quite sturdy and youthful with tannin on the finish. Youthful potential.
2021 Intemporal Rouge, Pays d’Herault - 35.00€
Pure Cinsault, of which 60% is kept in barrel, 20% in eggs and 20% in stainless steel vats, for eighteen months. Only made in the best years. Medium colour. A touch of oak on the nose and on the palate red fruit and some oaky hints. The oak gives the palate some weight and balances some appealing fresh fresh fruit. A nicely rounded finish. Very satisfying and a very appealing interpretation of Cinsault, adding to the argument that Cinsaut does make serious red wine.
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