Mas Lou
Olivier Gil very kindly agreed to see us even though he still had grapes to harvest, not to mention a container lorry coming to collect some wine….. He has a new cellar since my last visit as they have taken over the old purpose built cellar of Les Amants de la Vigneronne. It is on the outskirts of the village of Faugères and he now has the luxury of space. He is just completing his third harvest, and is pretty happy with the vintage. They knew if would be small, the effect of the drought of 2023 but the quality is good. They also bought four hectares of adjacent vines, including 30 ares of Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, which means that they can now have to correct grape varieties to a white Faugères.
2023 Côtes de Thongue Blanc, Quilla - 16€
A blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and a little Vermentino. This will be Faugères Blanc in 2024. Lightly herbal, lightly floral and lightly bitter. Nicely balanced with a firm finish. Fermented in demi-muids, with a small percentage in vat. They have just 30 ares, so a production of just 12hls.
2022 Faugères Rosé, Selva - 11€
90% Mourvèdre with a little Grenache. Sometimes the blend includes Cinsaut; it depends on the vintage. Originally Olivier made his rosé in vat but he realised that he wanted a rosé de garde, that would develop and keep in bottle, so he now ferments it in demi-muids. I immediately thought Bandol. There is a little colour. The nose is fresh and dry, lightly herbal with savoury notes. And the palate had firm fruit with a dry finish.
Olivier commented that 2024 is not a year for Mourvèdre. It has been too cool. He still had Mourvèdre to pick for the rosé and was gambling with the weather. The weather forecast would be good the day after our visit, but it is too soon to pick, but the following week was promising rain……and indeed it did rain, heavily.
2023 Côtes de Thongue Rouge, Amboro - 11€
The vineyards for this cuvée are at Tourbes, outside the Faugères appellation. A blend of whole bunches of Cinsault in a sandwich of destemmed Grenache at the top and bottom of the vat. So a blend in the vat. The aim is easy drinking, and that is what Olivier has achieved, with appealing spice on the nose and palate. Fresh fruit and a dry finish, with a streak of tannin.
2023 Angaco, Faugères
60% Carignan, from 100 year old vines, with a yield of 30 hl/ha. 20% Lledoner Pelut, with 20% Grenache, grown on the plain just south of the village of Roquessels. Kept in vat. Medium weight. Spice on both nose and palate. Nicely rounded with ripe fruit and a fresh finish. Sunshine in a glass and very appealing.
2023 Jalka, Faugères - 18€
80% Cinsault including fruit from a new Cinsault vine,yard and depending on the year, they add Grenache, or maybe a little Lledoner Pelut. Firmer, drier nose, with dry spice balanced with some fragrant perfumed notes on the palate. Nicely rounded. with a little weight and body.
2022 Aksou, Faugères - 15€
60% Syrah with Grenache and Carignan, kept in vat separately, and blended in February and then bottled August. Medium colour. Some peppery Syrah notes on the nose and palate. Nicely spicy and rounded.
2021 Tio, Faugères - 21€
One plot of Syrah accounts 90% of the blend. with some Grenache and Carignan. This is their only red wine to be aged in barrel, for 12 months. And they give the wine an extra year’s ageing in bottle before sale Good colour, Quite a sturdy nose, with dry spice. More spice on the palate, firm and savoury with a touch of oak.
They also still had some Roussanne to pick and Olivier explained that they are working on a solera. The first two harvests, 2022 and 2023 were late picked and put in vat, and with the 2024 grapes they planning to putting them in a dame jeanne, a large glass jar outside. And they will bottle some after six years. It sounds very intriguing. Watch this space.
And then we adjourned to Les Grands Terroirs, the convivial wine bar and shop at the top of the village of Faugères where I was amused by a sign that read Mieux vaut boire du rouge que broyer du noir, which vaguely translate that it is better to drink red wine than to get depressed. We actually drank white, a bottle of Vermentino from Sybil Baldassarre of La Graine Sauvage and very good it was too, with fresh herbal notes and mineral salinity.
Comments