New Year in the Languedoc
Fish was on
the menu for our first evening in the Languedoc, so the obvious choice was a
bottle of 2010 Allegro from Domaine Ollier Taillefer. I’ve written notes about this wine
before. Suffice it to say that it is one
of my favourite Languedoc whites. The
combination of Vermentino and Roussanne gives some lovely texture, with white
blossom, acidity and length.
The best
bottles are never quite big enough – and this was the case. We needed a little something else, and a bottle
of 1998 Maury Blanc fitted the bill, for a glass or two with some fig
compote. Blanc was not really an
accurate description of the colour; it was more ambré, tawny in colour – I
almost wondered whether it had been mislabelled - with quite rich nutty fruit
on both nose and palate. There was a
hint of dry honey and some balancing acidity, and some notes of fruits confits,
so just the thing to go with figs. The bottle came from the Maury coop which
works very well for its appellation.
On New Year’s
Day we have a bit of a tradition, a good walk through the garrigues, with a
group of friends, followed by Alice’s signature dish, an Irish stew. I get to provide the wine and as it happened
I had some bottles of mature Minervois la Livinière that were calling for
attention.
2007 Gérard
Bertrand, le Viala.
Deep
colour, just beginning to age. Quite a ripe
sweet vanilla nose, with integrated oak and some black fruit. On the palate the tannins had matured, and
were rounded and supple, and the fruit rich and evolved, with some dry leathery
notes on the finish. It was a touch
alcoholic on the finish. But in short a
lovely example of how well Languedoc reds can age. 2007 was a good vintage in the Languedoc,
faring much better than elsewhere in France.
2007 Château Massamier la Mignarde, Domus Maximus
This is the
top cuvée of this estate. Quite a deep
young colour. Quite intense black fruit;
ripe with some vanilla and on the palate more smooth black fruit, balanced with
supple tannins. There was underlying
oak, but it was well integrated, so that the palate was harmonious and rounded
with a long finish. A delicious bottle
of wine that had undoubtedly benefitted from some bottle age. Who says wines from the Languedoc do not
age? This was another shining example
that they do.
2002 Château
Faiteau.
Not one of
the great vintages of the last decade , but actually surprisingly successful in
the Minervois. Deep colour that was
beginning to evolve. Dry leather and
spice on the nose, and palate. Lighter body
than the two 2007s, but quite elegant, with an attractive note of
maturity. Maybe it was beginning to dry
out just a little on the finish, and slithering off its plateau of optimum
drinking, but it was none the worse for that, with a bit of cheese. There was underlying elegance. A jolly nice bottle.
Margot had
made a tarte tatin, which called out for a bottle of Muscat de Rivesaltes. The prize winning Dom Brial from the coop at
Baixas was just the thing, with rich
honey and grapey fruit complimenting the caramel notes of the tarte.
And all it remains for me to say is Happy New
Year – Bonne Année, with lots of good bottles from the Languedoc!
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