Languedoc at The Wine Society
The Wine Society can always be relied upon to come up with interesting
and unusual wines. I may be biased as I
joined the wine trade with the Wine Society – blame a glass of champagne at the
job interview. Last week they were taking advantage of the
evening AGM, meaning that all the buyers would be in the country, to host a
tasting, where each buyer had selected eight or so wines from their particular
areas. I always enjoy their tastings and
their South of France buyer, Marcel Orford Williams has a keen nose for an
interesting bottle or two.
I was particularly struck by the first natural wine they
have put on their list, namely Corbières Le Hameau des Ollieux Nature, from a
leading Corbières producer, Château
Ollieux Romanis. £9.25.
Medium depth of colour, with a vibrantly fresh nose, and packed with
refreshing red fruit on the palate. It
was lighter and fresher and more elegant than more conventional Corbières, and quite delicious. However, if there is one thing that I reproach natural
wines, it is that they all, irrespective of provenance, have a tendency to a similarity
of style. The best have that delicious mouth-watering
freshness, but that somehow seems to mask their origins. And Marcel agreed with me.
I have long had a soft spot for Corsica and was delighted that Marcel had
two wines from Corsica in his line-up.
2012 Domaine Arena from Patrimonio, Biancu Gentile - £22 Not cheap, but wines from Corsica are very rarely
cheap. Vermentino is the more usual
grape variety of Corsica, but efforts are being made to revive some of the
other varieties that are in danger of disappearing. This Bianco Gentile has some delicately fragrant
fruit on the nose, with more texture and weight on the palate, with an
elegantly rounded finish. Antoine Arena
is indisputably one of the leading producers of Patrimonio.
And there was another Patrimonio, from a producer who was
unknown to me, 2013 Clos Alivu. -
£12.95. The grape variety is Nielluccio,
otherwise known as Sangiovese, and the wine had some fresh sour cherry fruit on
both and palate. Elegant with a streak
of tannin and a fresh finish.
The final Midi wine came from Domaine du Bosc, a 2011 Petit
Verdot, Pays d'Oc. This estate is owned by Pierre
Besinet, who was one of the pioneers of the region in the 1980s – he is now in
his 80s. For £7.50 it makes a jolly nice
glass of wine, offering easy drinking, with some rounded fruit and ripe
tannins, but not too heavy or sturdy.
And there were all sorts of other delights I could enthuse
about, but since they come from elsewhere, I shall refrain.
Comments