Domaine Guiraud
Or to give it its full title, Domaine Boissezon-Guiraud.
Pomplia
Guiraud explained that they had had problems with Château Guiraud in Sauternes,
even though Guiraud is her husband’s family name and the family have been in
Roquebrun for 200 years. And as well as
vineyards in Roquebrun, they also have vineyards in the nearby village of Causse-et-Veyran,
and that is where Boissezon comes in, with a wedding some fifty years ago. Altogether they have 58 hectares, one third
in Roquebrun and two thirds in Causse-et-Veyran. Pomplia comes from Romania; she met Michel Guiraud
when he was there on holiday. He took
over the family estate thirty years ago, and began bottling his wine about
twenty years ago. And they make a
diverse range of wines, which we tasted in the old cellar.
2014 Les Hirondelles, Pays de l’Hérault - 7.00€
A pure
Sauvignon. Classic fermentation. Fresh pithy fruit on the nose and rounded
Sauvignon fruit on the palate, with some varietal character. A pleasant glass of wine, without any great
depth.
2014 Les
Petits Cailloux, Pays de l’Hérault – 5.50€
White blossom
on the nose. Rounded ripe palate, with
some texture and mouth feel. Fresh
fruit. Medium weight and easy drinking.
And with
this 2015 harvest they will make a St. Chinian Blanc for the first time from Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache
blanc.
2014 Rosé, La Dame Rose, Pays de l’Hérault – 5.50€
A blend of Mourvèdre
and Cinsaut that could equally well be a St. Chinian. Light colour. Light fruit on the nose and quite a rounded
palate, with some ripe fruit, dry raspberries.
All saigné. The Mourvèdre gives
it some structure making it a food rosé. From vineyards in Roquebrun.
2013 Grenache Noir, Sans Pareil, Pays de l’Hérault – 5.50€
Not made in
2014 as there was not enough Grenache, as the vines suffered from drought in
Causse-et-Veyran. Nor are all the vines
in Causse-et-Veyran are classified as St Chinian. Medium young colour. Soft ripe fruit on both
the nose and palate. Quite ripe and
spicy, soft and fleshy and a slightly jammy note on the finish. Easy drinking.
2014 Les
Cerises, St. Chinian – 7.00€
From Roquebrun,
but it doesn’t say so on the label. 55%
Syrah with Grenache Noir, Carignan and Cinsaut. Medium colour. Quite soft ripe fruit on the nose. Quite rounded and spicy; easy drinking.
They
practice lutte raisonnée rather than organic viticulture. They have just three employees and would need
several more if they were to be organic.
2014 St Chinian.
Comme à Cayenne – 9.50€
Each wine always
comes from the same plot each year, and this plot, called Brusse Noir, is
particularly difficult to work, with very stony soil. Hence the reference to French Guyana where
convicts were sent for forced labour. This
is a blend of 85% Grenache Noir and 15% Carignan, picked together and fermented
together. Medium colour; quite ripe
spicy nose. Medium weight palate. A touch of rustic tannin from the
Carignan. Aged in vat . Refreshing drinking.
2011 Château Boissezon-Guiraud, St. Chinian – 7.00€
From the
clay and limestone soil of Causse-et-Veyran. A blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir, Carignan and Cinsaut.
Élevage in vat. Medium colour. Lightly smoky and a bit stalky on the
nose. Better palate with some appealing peppery
fruit. A touch confit on the finish.
2012 La Suite dans les Idées, St. Chinian – 11.00€
Mainly Mourvèdre,
with some Grenache and Carignan. Aged in
vat. They seem to have a slightly ambivalent
attitude to oak barrels, using them up to 2006 and then trying again in
2012. Quite solid ripe fruit. Quite concentrated, with a sweet note, and
also a slightly green note. Like
virtually everyone else in Roquebrun, they don’t mention Roquebrun on the label,
observing that it is not very well known, so doesn’t really add anything – though
Pomplia did now admit that they were beginning to have second thoughts.
2012 Cap Nègre, Pays
de l’Hérault – 10.00€
This is the
name of plot. A pure Alicante Bouschet,
from 30 year old vines. Quite solid and
sturdy with black fruit on the nose.
Quite tannic and dense. Aged in
vat. An amusing back label written in
medical terms , suggesting a moderate
consumption and that it would go well with black chocolate.
2010 Terre Promise, St. Chinian – 15.00€
85% Syrah, 15% Carignan.
Aged in vat. For
some reason I did not find this very harmonious. There
was sturdy fruit and some peppery spice, but with an awkward edge on the
finish. Maybe it needs a bit more bottle
age.
And
projects for the future? Maybe another rosé, as well as a white St.
Chinian. And maybe a new red cuvée. They are full of ideas. And then we went to see some of the vineyards on the outskirts of the village.
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