Domaine Picaro's
One of the excitements
of ten days in the Languedoc over New Year
was the discovery of a new wine estate in my own adopted village. Wine quality in Roujan is definitely
beginning to look up. As mentioned in a
previous post, a wine from Domaine Picaro’s was amongst the Pays d’Oc
Collection for 2015. So I had to go and
visit and see for myself.
Pierre and Caroline
have their cellar in the chemin de Pézenas.
Pierre Rouillé comes from a long-established
Roujan family; his grandfather had the traditional Languedoc cellar with large
foudres, while his father preferred to put his vines into the Roujan coop. Pierre studied oenology at Dijon and then
together he and Caroline went to work in Chile, in the Maule valley for three
years. When they returned to France,
they wanted to create something from the family vines, and their first cuvée
was born, Amano, a blend of Syrah and Grenache, handmade, as the name implies,
with meticulous attention to detail.
They had a tiny basket press, which has now been upgraded to the
smallest of pneumatic presses, and they destalk all the bunches by hand and
then put the wine into feuillettes, which are even smaller than barriques and more
commonly found in Chablis than in the Languedoc. They do have a larger demi-muid as well.
So of their ten
hectares, seven are in the village coop, and three produce two wines, in tiny
quantities. They are gradually
replanting and renovating their vineyards, and apart from Grenache Noir, Syrah
and Carignan they also have some more international varieties, Chardonnay, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Viognier, as well as Muscat à petits grains and an old vineyard of
Grenache Blanc. They also have some
land they could clear and replant, and their next project is a white wine.
2014 Plurielles, (11.00€)
which featured in the Pays d’Oc Collection, tasted just as good in their
cellar. This was their first vintage. It
is a blend of 50% Syrah, with 25% each of Grenache Noir and Carignan, with some
traditional vinification and some carbonic maceration. They wanted some accessible fruit, and that
is just what they have achieved, a wine with very appealing red fruit, with
acidity as well as tannin and an elegant balance. The Carignan vines are now 40 years old, and
beginning to become interesting, as Caroline observed.
2012 Amano (25.00€) is
a more serious proposition, with 50 % Grenache Noir and 50% Syrah, aged in
wood, some new and some older, for ten months.
Both nose and palate are quite solid and rounded, but there is ripe fruit,
with a touch of vanilla and some well integrated oak balancing the fruit, and
again and elegant freshness on the finish.
Caroline explained how they work on a very long gentle extraction, with
a four weeks maceration, as opposed to two for the Plurielles. Destemming by hand also makes for very gentle
handling, and gives more richness and concentration of flavour. Undoubtedly this will benefit from some
bottle age. The quantities are tiny, just 1500 bottles of
Amano and 3500 of les Plurielles.
And we finished with
some 2015 vat samples: a sturdy Grenache
wit h ripe red fruit and tannins; a ripe perfumed Carignan with some cherry fruit, and a firm spicy Syrah. It all promises well for the future.
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