Balade Vigneronne at La Clape

 

The massif of la Clape provides some of the most dramatic vineyard scenery of the whole of the Languedoc, and there is certainly plenty of competition on that front.  But at la Clape you have wonderful sea views as well as steep cliffs and vineyards in the garrigues.   The Massif is at 214 metres at its highest point.

Château la Rouquette sur Mer is one of the biggest estates of the whole appellation, situated just outside Narbonne Plage and so it provides the perfect terrain for a balade vigneronne.   The weather in the Languedoc had been unseasonably cool, but on the Sunday of the walk we were lucky; the sun shone brightly but it was not too hot for tasting wines.  The walk took us along dirt tracks and through vineyards with some wonderful views of the sea, and the original 14th century  château of la Rouquette, which was damaged during the Second World War.  

The balades vigneronnes of the Languedoc - most appellations organise one during the summer - are very well organised.  When you arrive you are given a pouch with a glass, cutlery and a sheet of vouchers, one for each course and most important of all, a tasting booklet.  And also a sunhat, with a ribbon bearing the name of the appellation.   I have quite a collection, from previous balades, and some in duplicate or even triplicate.

The tasting booklet included a brief introduction to la Clape.  The region benefits or suffers from 13 different winds, and from about 3000 hours of sunshine, making it one of the sunniest spots of whole Languedoc.  Today there are  27 independent wine estates, along with three cooperatives that contribute to the annual production of some 26.450 hectolitres.   Although everyone makes all three colours, for some reason the rosé is AOP Languedoc, rather than La Clape. 

It would be tedious to write tasting notes for every single wine, so I am simply going to highlight a favourite or two from each stop.  So the first stop was at le Chemin de Grange-Haute with a mise en bouche of three oysters from the étang de Thau.  Who managed to drop her oysters in the gravel when the cardboard plate wobbled uncontrollably?   Fortunately my good friend Sarah was prepared to part with one of her oysters and there was also a rather tasty tomato puree with basil, with a panna cotta of goats cheese.  And there were three lovely white wines to go with the mise en bouche, as well as one rosé.  The defining grape variety of la Clape is Bourboulenc, and with the proximity to the sea, you cannot help detecting some saline notes.  Here I think my vote goes to Domaine Sarrat de Goundy, for a wine that had a little more weight than the others, and maybe a touch of oak.  This what not the moment for any technical questions.   Drinking pleasure was the key.  

Then onto Clos de Pierre, for a cold starter of some delicious crab accompanied by a broccoli salad, with an avocado cream, with five wines as an accompaniment.    It was surprisingly good combination.   I have a soft spot for the wines of Château d’Anglès, and their 2023 Classique did not disappoint, with some weight and depth and plenty of nuances.  Domaine de l’Angel was a new name for me and I enjoyed their delicate rose, with some dry raspberry fruit and a salty tang on the finish.  

At la Vigne de Leon we were treated to some brandade made from red mullet with some saffron.  Out of the five wines there, 2022 Château les Bugadelles Reserve white got my vote, with a satisfyingly rounded palate, and some sappy fruit, combined with some depth and elegance.  

The main course was served close to the Vieux Château.  Sarah told me that the cuisse de volaille farcie au lard de cochon noir with morilles and ris de veau was delicious, but after three courses, I was running out of steam on food, and so concentrated on the wines. Sarah’s reward for driving us to la Clape was my fetching tasting samples for her.   There were of course the most number of wines with the main course, eight in all, and all but one red.  The lone rosé came from Château Camplazens.  Most of the reds had some rich fruit, with blends of Syrah and Grenache, but mainly from the 2022 or 2021 vintages, they were generally too young for really enjoyable drinking.   Château Pech Redon is one of the leading estates of the appellation and the 2021did not disappoint with some dense fruit and balanced oak and potential .   2022 Château Négly la Côte was showing well with black fruit and structure, and again ageing potential.  

The cheese course came next, goat’s cheese from the Chevrerie de Combelle at Bize-Minervois.  Here there were both red and white, and also a rosé to try.  Château Catherine de Montgolfier produced the rosé and I tried to find out their relationship to the Montgolfier who invented the hot air balloon, but to no avail.  The wine was rounded with ripe fruit, and nicely vinous.  The white Grand Vin from Château Hospitalet, Gerard Bertrand’s flagship estate on la Clape was rounded and mouthing-filling.   And the tasting ended with a nice discovery. 2018 Domaine Costeplane de Ferrié, with some very appealing rounded ripe fruit and supple tannins and a harmonious finish.  It had obviously benefited from bottle age, compared to some of the earlier reds.  It is the smallest estate of the appellation, with just five hectares.   Worth a visit, me thinks.

And to finish the decadence of the afternoon, there was a splendid chocolate concoction and some coffee.  In short, a lovely way to spend a Sunday.