Clos du Gravillas
I saw John Bojonowski at the Real Wine Fair, organised by his UK importer, les Caves de Pyrène, and we agreed, that rather than taste in the lively scrum of the fair, it would be much sympa for me to come and visit them in St Jean-Minervois. That way I also got to see Nicole and enjoy a delicious lunch!! And we would all be more relaxed, and I would benefit from more commentary and irreverent observations. They have 18 different varieties in 8.5 hectares of vines, so expect plenty of diversity.
2023 Amène-moi au bout du Terret – 15€
A pure Terret Gris. Lanolin on the nose. And on the palate rounded fruit and texture, but with a streak of firm acidity. The acidity is nicely enrobé, wrapped up – I am never quite sure what the English translation would be – and there were some herbal notes on the finish. It was fresh and lively with an underlying energy. John talked about vendange vert, to encourage the grapes all to ripen at the same time. They also use some for bubbles and some for verjus. Three tries become one tri. The juice is pressed and put in an amphora and bottled in March.
John explained that they had tried stainless steel, which made the wine too reductive, as Terret needs air, and also a barrel, but that made it too oaky. They had also tried eggs and settled on amphora, first grès, or sandstone, but terracotta is better as it is more porous
2023 Retour aux origines – 20€
A blend of Piquepoul Gris, Terret Gris and Carignan Blanc. A little colour. Quite firm and stony. Firm fresh acidity and stony fruit. A juicy mouth-watering quality. Again some fresh energy on the palate. John explained that Picpoul gives acidity; Terret some volume – those two are in amphora, while Carignan Blanc, which is richer, goes into barrel. They now have eight amphora, six in terracotta from Italy and two sandstone.
2023 l’Attendu AC Minerevois
A blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Macabeo, kept in 800 litre Stockinger barrels on the lees. Malo fait. Macabeo is fairly unusual in the Languedoc; it is more a Roussillon variety. John has just ten ares of it. The nose was more solid and rounded compared to the previous wine, with nice weight on the palate balancing some firm acidity. Notes of stony fruit and some oak.
John is very happy with 2023 – very good for quantity as well as quality, he observed.
2023 A fleur de peau AC
Muscat with just a drop, 2% of Terret. In oak and then finished in an amphora. Quite a golden colour. Perfumed orange fruit on the nose and palate. Some spicy Muscat fruit. With good acidity, even a touch of tannin. Un joli amer. Perfumed and rich, almost sweet but no residual sugar. 15°.
Happy comme une Dimanche à la plage
John described as a blend of things we might throw away, such as some verjus. They use the pressings of Muscat – destemmed and then put it into tank with some verjus and skins. It was very intriguing, with orange honey, a tannic freshness and a hint of Muscat with quite an aromatic finish.
2023 Mademoiselle Lily
A blend of Viognier and Roussanne, which they planted in 2000 before they had discovered the old varieties of the Languedoc. There was a bit of a fashion for Viognier at the time. Lightly perfumed white flowers. Lightly peachy. Good acidity. Half was kept in a Stockinger barrel and half in a tank. They made just 500 litres. Quite rich and textured with good weight and a dry finish. It was kept on its lees, malo fait, with no particular temperature control.
2023 Alive
Inspired by the song form Céline Dion, I’m alive…. A blend of Piquepoul Noir, Gris and Blanc, and Cinsault. Co-fermented. Light red in colour and fresh red fruit on the palate and palate. A streak of tannin and a refreshing palate. A perfect summer wine. John observed that 200 years ago the main varieties in the village would have been Piquepoul Noir and Terret Noir, as well as Muscat.
2023 Sous les cailloux des grillons.
A blend of Syrah, Carignan, a little Cinsault and some Terret Noir. Deep young colour. Quite solid peppery red fruit on the nose and palate. Very refreshing with acidity and tannins and red fruit. Medium weight.
Rendez-vous sur la lune, Minervois
A blend of Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault. Quite deep young colour. Quite a rounded ripe red fruit nose, and on the palate, some firm tannin and youthful fruit. Peppery Syrah. Promises well. Just bottled.
A blend of Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon. To be bottled shortly. Deep young colour. Solid cassis on the nose with a firm tannic finish. No barrel ageing. Full of potential.
2022 Lo Viehl
Carignan aged in barrel. Lighter in colour. Quite a firm nose with a touch of oak. A firm fresh palate with some ripe cherry fruit and good length. Promises well.
2023 St Jean-de-Minervois
Lemony light and fresh on nose and palate and very elegant
2015 Pour un peu de tendresse, Vin de France
Large harvest. Elegantly concentrated with dry honey and notes of maturity. John is aiming to revive the fortunes of Muscat in the same way that he redeemed Carignan.
A lovely visit with original wines galore. Thank you John and Nicole.
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