Domaine Cottebrune
I completely omitted to take any photos at Cotebrune, so here is some Faugeres schist by way of illustration.
I have visited Domaine Cottebrune in the hamlet of La Liquière a few times over the years, but this was the first time with a member of the Gaillard family, who own the estate. Pierre Antoine, Pierre Gaillard’s son, is now responsible for the property, which Pierre bought in 2004. As well as vineyards in Côte Rôtie, the family make wine on the other side of the Rhône Valley, under the label of Vins de Vienne and in Banyuls, where they bought Domaine Madeloc in 2003. Pierre-Antoine’s, Elise, sister is responsible for Madeloc. And Cottebrune is the maiden name of Pierre Antoine’s mother. He explained that his father has now retired, but has certainly not given up driving a tractor…. so definitely an active retirement.
Pierre-Antoine is actually based in Côte Rôtie. We should have met in January, but believe it or not, he was snowed in and there was no way that he could attempt to drive south…..His régisseur Stéphan is in charge in his absence. so I had a friendly tasting with the two of them.
2024 les Moulins Blanc - 11.50€
One third each of Grenache Blanc, Vermentino and Roussanne. Each variety is picked and vinified separately, with ageing in old barrels for six months, and blending just before bottling. The grapes come from two different plots, a vineyard in the northern part of the village of Faugères, which is much cooler than the vineyards of La Liquière. Pierre Antoine explained that the vineyards at La Caumette, which is part of the village of Faugères, but behind the hills that dominate the skyline of the village, ripen three weeks later than those in La Liquière. The altitude is 400 - 500 metres, as opposed to 300 metres in La Liquière The vineyards at La Caumette are more hilly, and surrounded by garrigues.
The colour of the wine was quite golden, with some very satisfying texture on the palate. And some rounded notes of white flowers on both nose and palate. I just loved the texture of this wine. It was deliciously mouth filling, but with a fresh finish, so that it maintained its elegance.
The estate now consists of 14 hectares, with 5.5 hectares at La Caumette where the vineyards are very steep and the vines planted en echalas with one supporting post, as they are in the Rhone Valley. And the other vineyards are in Cabrerolles, one of the more northern villages of Faugères, of which the hamlet of La Liquière is a part. Pierre Antoine observed that in the Rhône Valley, you need protection from the north wine, whereas in Faugères it is better to be facing north.
2023 Le Cairn Blanc- 16.00€
The same grape varieties and the same vinification method, but different terroir, with vineyards at Montgros, within the village of Cabrerolles, where it is warmer than Faugères, with steep vineyards. Again quite a golden colour. The oak influence is more obviously, but palate was rounded and rich with a touch of oak. And the palate was longer, with more weight in the mouth, and more subtle nuances. Another lovely glass of wine. I really like this estate’s white wines.
2022 Les Moulins Rouge - 11.50€
Mainly Grenache, with some Syrah and Carignan. 50% aged in barrel for 12 months, and 50% in vat. The aim is something that is easy to drink. Medium colour. Quite rich cherry fruit on the nose, with good fruit on the palate, balanced by quite a firm dry streak of tanniin. All the grapes are destemmed and given about a three week maceration. 12.5%
For Pierre Antoine, Faugères has freshness because of the altitude. He talked about harvest times, which takes place over a month. In Banyuls they begin the harvest in August. And the soil there is schist too, but a different schist from Faugères, and Côte Rôtie. In Faugères the schist retains water, so the quality is more consistent..
2021 Les Moulins Rouge
2021 is remembered for its frost, which is unusual in the Languedoc, and it was also a wetter than average year. Light red colour, with a quite a firm cherry nose. Riper and softer on the palate than 2022, but still with a firm tannic streak. The fresh finish typical of Faugères.
2023 Transhumance Rouge - 16.00€
About 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and the rest Mourvèdre, which is grown in warmer Montgros, that is part of Cabrerolles.. Aged in barrels for 16 months. They buy two new barrels a year. Quite deep colour. Very Grenache on the nose. Ripe fruit, rich spices with a firm tannic streak and a fresh finish.
The name transhumence, which is usually refers to sheep, travelling between winter and summer pastures, refers to their own peripatetic journey from Côte Rôtie to Faugères to Banyuls.
2022 Parole de Berger Rouge - 22.50€
A blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre. They don’t have enough Carignan to include that in the blend, as Carignan is best when it comes from old vines, and theirs are too young, for the moment. 16 - 18 months in barrel. Good colour. Quite a firm structured nose, and on the palate firm dense and peppery. Quite solid fruit with some tannin and Quite a restrained Syrah, compared to some from the Languedoc. It comes from a north-facing plot. Good ageing potential.
They make two third red to one third white, but still have land to plant so maybe they might plant some more white, or maybe some Grenache. Pierre Antoine is a fan of Grenache. And he would also like some olive trees.
And then he suggested tasting some 2025 wines from barrel. That is unusual in the Languedoc, and much more common in Burgundy or the Rhône Valley. Needless to say, I accepted with pleasure. so we adjourned to the cellars, a semi underground shed. They use about ten different coopers.
There was Grenache, from a vineyards called Moulin à Vent, on the top of a hill and of course windy, with some juicy fruit and a streak of tannin. Another Grenache that was destined for Les Moulins was deeper in colour and very gouleyant and ripe. And third from the hotter vineyard of Montgros had some sweet cherry fruit, but was balanced with fresh acidity and tannin. It would be part of Transhumance.
Next came a tight-knit peppery Syrah, with some firm structure. It was ripe but not overripe. They want to avoid any water stress and remove the grass, but protect the bunches from the sun with the leaves. Syrah for Parole de Berger was a little more perfumed on the nose and palate, and more like the Rhône valley. Of their two vineyards in Cabrerolles, Montgros gives warmth, whereas the other is more like the Rhône valley.
There was a Carignan from Cabrerolles, from vines planted ten years ago, with a deep colour and firm red fruit, with acidity and tannin and a juicy finish. Mourvèdre was a blend of two plots, combining red fruit and oak with a fresh finish. 2025 was a small crop, and complicated because of a heatwave. In 2024 there had been wet weather during the flowering and that would have also impacted 2025. But there was no doubt that the barrels samples showed promise.
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