The Languedoc in Decanter's 2013 World Wine Awards
A fat magazine thudded through my letterbox. It was
the October issue of Decanter with all the results of this year's World Wine
Awards. And naturally I turned to
Languedoc Roussillon to remind myself just which wines had won what.
There were four regional trophies from the Languedoc, namely
:
Red Under £15 went to 2008 Château Trillol in the Corbières
- see my earlier blog on this lovely estate
Red over £15 was won by 2011 Château Camplazens, Premium, la
Clape . Also see an early posting.
And the trophy for the Fortified White over £15 went to
Domaine de Rancy for a fabulous 1993 Rivesaltes Ambré. These wines are so under-rated; they deserve
a serious revival. Again see an earlier post.
And that left
Fortant de France Réserve
des Grands Mont Carignan, Vin de Pays de l’Hérault.
As a panel we were thrilled to give a trophy to a Carignan, as it
demonstrated just how good Carignan can be when it comes from low-yielding old
vines and is carefully vinified. And
this was a lovely example.
The Fortant de France brand was launched by Robert Skalli in
1988, with a pioneering range of varietal Vins de Pays d’Oc. Then in 2011 it
was bought by Boisset of Burgundy, and the decision was taken to redevelop the
brand from scratch, with an emphasis on the varied terroirs of the Languedoc. They see Carignan as the emblematic grape
variety of the Languedoc. The grapes
come from the high hills of Minervois and Corbières, which provide some of the
most challenging terroir of the Languedoc.
These are old vines grown on clay and limestone, with low yields. The wine-making is meticulous, and entails some
carbonic maceration in vat, as well as a more conventional fermentation, and
some ageing in 600-litre barrels, in preference to smaller barriques. A small
part of the blend is also kept in concrete eggs, in order to achieve a very
natural and slow bâtonnage. 2011 is the
first vintage of this wine, and it really is a stunning example of the current
revival in the fortunes of Carignan.
And now the Gold medals.
There was a totally unknown (to me) Blanquette de Limoux, called Manny
O, Celebrus Brut. I have never heard of
this label and have been quite unable to find out any more about it. All leads result in a blank .....
I really enjoyed the two silver medals from Limoux, both
from Domaine J Laurens, one of my favourite producers, with Le Moulin, Blanquette
de Limoux and les Graimenous, Crémant de Limoux 2011. Both delicious
and stylish.
Another red wine made Gold, namely Château la Sauvageonne, Cuvée
les Ruffes. This is a Terrasses du
Larzac property that has recently been taken over by Gérard Bertrand.
Sadly no white wine was quite good enough for a Gold, but
there were three very convincing silvers, namely L’Impertinent from Château des
Estanilles in Faugères. This was a
pioneering estate under the ownership of Michel Louison, and recently sold to
Julien Seydoux. So it looks as though he
is achieving good things.
Domaine Belles Pierres has a good reputation for finely
crafted white wines in the hands of Damien Coste, and his 2011 les Clauzes de
Jo is a lovely blend of Roussanne, Viognier and a splash of Grenache
Blanc. .
And finally a Picpoul de Pinet from Domaine Delsol, which is
part of Vignobles Foncalieu, This was
everything that good Picpoul should be, salty and sappy.
There was just two Silver rosés, from Château des Karentes in la Clape and from Domaine
de Montrose in the Côtes de Thongue.
And you might expect, there was a solid raft of silver
reds. Highlights included several St.
Chinian from the excellent coop at Roquebrun.
Château Ste Eulalie in the Minervois achieved two silvers for la Cantilène and for their Grand
Vin. Gérard
Bertrand and Domaines Paul Mas were in the line up, as well as smaller estates,
Mas Gabriel for les Trois Terrasses, Mas du Soleilla, les Fusionels in
Faugères, Chateau Rouquette sur Mer and Domaine de l’Arjolle. And there were three estates that were
completely unknown to me, Clos des Vins d’Amour and Domaine de Venus from
Roussillon, and Château
Portal in the Minervois.
And the final silver was for a fortified wine, a delicious 2011 red Banyuls from Abbé Rous, otherwise
known as the coop in Banyuls. So all in
all, some good results, and some delicious drinking.
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