The 2012 Terrasses du Larzac walk
The balade
vigneronne organised by the syndicat of the Terrasses du Larzac is one of summer
highlights of the tasting calendar. The
venue changes each year, and this year it was the turn of the village of Aniane
to play host. As usual, some forty
vignerons were participating from all over the area so it was a chance to catch
up with some friends and make some new discoveries. And the food was supplied by Fabienne Perret
from Mas Cambounet in Gignac.
We were
bussed to the point of departure just north of the village and equipped with
the essentials; sun hat, tasting list, cutlery, meal tickets, wine glass and off we
set, down a shady stony track to our first étape, in an olive
grove, for the mise en bouche, a selection of verrines, I opted for brebis with some chives. And the wine highlights included:
2011 Plan
de l’Homme, Alpha, Blanc – 21.00€
80%
Roussanne and 20% Grenache. Quite
rounded, textured, with good weight and body. White blossom fruit and a
touch of oak. Very satisfying.
2009 La Croix Chaptal Clairette – 9.00€
A pure
Clairette. Quite golden, with a ripe
nose and a rounded palate, with good texture. Clairette is a rather understated grape
variety, and does not pack a punch of flavour.
Charles-Walter explained that 30% was aged in barrel with bâtonnage, and
70% was left in vat on its lees, and then they were blended and aged for a
further six months.
The track
continued through vines to an entrée, a tatin de lentilles verts with foie gras
mi-cuit. This was absolutely delicious.
And with it, we tried:
2011 Rosé, Les Chemin de Carabote – Délicate colour. Quite firm and solid, with a tight knit palate, with some firm raspberry
fruit.
2011 Rosé, Montpeyroux coop.
Delicate colour. Nicely rounded with some ripe fruit and a fresh finish.
2009 Domaine
Montcalmès, rouge
60% Syrah,
20% each Grenache and Mourvèdre. Two
years élevage in old wood. The oak is
very well integrated, with harmonious tannins and fresh red fruit. Structured and elegant. More on Montcalmès in due course, as I have
subsequently been for a cellar visit.
2009 Mas de la Séranne, Clos des Immortelles,
Medium
colour. Perfumed spicy nose. medium weight with some tannins and black
fruit and tapenade.
2009 La Bastides aux Oliviers, l’Esprit.
Medium
colour. Quite meaty perfumed fruit on
nose, with ripe rounded supple red fruit
on the palate. Very gouleyant.
2009 Château
de Jonquières, la Baronnie.
This was
serious, structured and oaky, with some ripe fruit.
The fish
course was at a magnificent view point, with the Languedoc hills stretched out
before us, with the Pic de Vissou and the Caroux in the distance. We enjoyed a tartare de Saint-Pierre, with
some chard in olive oil.
And for wine:
2010 Mas Brunet, Tradition blanc.
Roussanne, Viognier and Vermentino. Quite rounded rich and peachy with some acidity
on the finish. Viognier dominates the
palate.
2011 Mas
Jullien rosé
A little
colour. A touch of herbs, thyme. Quite rounded and fresh with good acidity.
2011 Mas Cal Demoura, Qu’es Aquo
Quite rounded and ripe, with hints of crushed thyme. A fresh finish. Mainly Cinsaut and Grenache grown on clay and limestone. Vincent explained that for his rosé he is tending toward more pressed grapes, which gives minerality, whereas saigné makes for more weight.
2011 La Réserve d’O, Rosé
A touch of
wood. Quite rounded, herbal notes. Minimum s02, a smoky note from the limestone. Mainly Cinsaut with some Grenache and Syrah.
2010 Clos
du Serres, En Terrasses Rose
Quite
rounded and ripe with good acidity and a fresh finish.
2009
Domaine d’Archimbaud, L’Enfant Terrible Rouge
60% Mourvèdre
with 20% Carignan and Grenache. Quite rounded and ripe with a fresh edge, and
some red fruit.
The meat
course was a barbecue, and delicious it was too, with Aubrac beef and lamb from
Sisteron, with lots of red wines to try.
The highlights were:
2010 la Traversée. Delicious beautifully elegant,
firm minerality and a fresh finish.
2009 Domaine la Péira, les Obriers de la Peira.
A blend of Cinsaut
and Carignan. Very attractive spicy
fruit with ripe red fruit. Hints of
liquorice. An elegant finish.
2009 Domaine
les Souls
80% Syrah,
20% Grenache. Quite firm palate, with a
meaty nose and some firm tannins and a peppery finish. Definitely benefitted from being served
chilled.
2009 Cave
de Pégairolles, l’Astie,
From the
smallest coop of the Languedoc. Quite firm and structured with youthful fruit
and a nice balance Aged in old wood.
2009
Domaine Alexandrin, Alex
Equal parts
of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. Fresh
elegant nose. Quite a rounded ripe
palate, with red and black fruit. Medium
weight.
2009 Mas
des Chimères, Caminarèm
From equal
parts of the five grapes of the appellation .
Quite a firm nose, with slightly meaty
notes. Firm palate with fresh spicy
fruit. Medium weight.
And then
our path took us back into Aniane, to the square outside the abbatiale for some
goats cheese, and both red and white wines.
The
highlight here was
2010 les Vignes Oubliées. With Jean-Baptiste Granier. Medium colour. Fresh spice, on
nose and palate. Medium weight lovely
cherry fruit. 75% Grenache with 25%
Syrah. 10% aged in wood. Definitely on
the list for a cellar visit.
2009 Domaine d’Anglas, Face au Château, blanc. Marsanne and Roussanne, fermented in oak with bâtonnage. Quite nutty leesy note. Rounded and characterful. Quite full-bodied. A new name to me, and a discovery.
2011 Mas
Haut Buis blanc
From one of
the most northern vineyards of the Terrasses du Larzac. Roussanne with a little chardonnay. Lightly leesy, well integrated oak. Quite rounded, with nutty notes and a touch
of agrumes, and an elegant finish.
2009 Capitelle des Salles, Hommage rouge. Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, grown on schist at 300 metres. Good fruit and an elegant balance. My tasting notes are becoming increasingly
illegible by this stage!
And the
walk finished in front of La Chapelle des Penitents for some dessert wine and a
visiting Limoux producer.
Crémant de
Limoux, Bulles d’Aval was rounded and creamy with a refreshing balance.
2011 Clos
Rivieral, Vendanges Tardives Viognier – Quite concentrated and oaky. Honeyed and peachy. Quite intriguing but a tad clumsy.
And the Montpeyroux
coop was showing a late harvest Chenin, 2009 Le Vionus. Amber in colour; quite rich with nutty fruit
and acidity. I guess it had been sitting
in a barrel for a while. Maybe the
dessert wines were a bit of an anti-climax at the end. But none the less it was all enormously good
fun.
Comments
Mind it's so hot here in Margon at present that it's nice to just sit. Is this an annual event Rosemary?
And I wonder if there has been a generation change of Anglas, or something to make them take their wine more seriously?