Domaine Vinci
A chance meeting chez some neighbours led to tasting of
Domaine Vinci yesterday evening. Simon
Stoye is a shareholder in Domaine Vinci, a Roussillon estate run by Olivier
Varichon. The name may be familiar from
the sparkling wine producers of Savoie, Varichon & Clerc. And why do you
move to Roussillon from Savoie? Simple; the weather is so much better. Olivier has vines between the villages of
Estagel and Espira, and also at a higher altitude of 600 metres at Eus, near
Prades. He works organically and always
relies on natural yeast and uses a minimum amount of sulphur in the cellar. The name of the estate comes from his wife Emmanuelle’s surname. The very first vintage was 2002, when they
made just 1000 bottles, and 2004 was their first commercial vintage, but quantities are still pretty
small. The geology of Roussillon is very
mixed, so there is granite in the vineyards, as well as clay and limestone, and
schist.
2012 Cuvée Roc, Côtes Catalanes
Olivier treats this cuvée as a second wine, but with the
precise blend depending on the vintage.
There is always 50% Carignan, to which Grenache was added in 2012. This has wonderful ripe fruit on both nose and
palate. It was really succulent with
spicy fruit and supple tannins, and very ready to drink, even though it is still
quite young. The elevage is in vat rather than barrel.
2011 Cuvée Roc, Côtes Catalanes
Mourvèdre and Carignan. This is quite different. Although Carignan always constitutes 50% of
the blend, the final mix varies from year to year. This was firmer on nose, more viandé, from
the Mourvèdre, with drier firmer spice, and on the palate a tannic steak, with
some firm fruit. It was much more
youthful on the palate than the 2012.
2010 Cuvée Rafalot, Côtes Catalanes
Pure Carignan. The
vines are 125 years old. The fermenting juice spends three to five weeks in cement vats on
the skins, and then 18 to 24 months in barriques. Deep young colour. Rich, ripe and dense with some leathery notes
on the nose. More perfumed on the palate, but
also quite tannic and leathery.
2008 Cuvée Rafalot, Côtes Catalanes
Deep young colour.
Ripe, dense and rich. A bit
leathery on the nose, and again more perfumed on the palate. Quite firm tannins and
some leathery notes. Also a touch of sweetness
and a slight prickle. NOt as harmonious as the 2010.
2007 Cuvée Rafalot, Côtes Catalanes
Deep colour. Some
rounded ripe fruit on both nose and palate.
A hint of sweet chocolate. Ripe fruit balanced by firm tannins. Despite the richness there was also a note of
elegance.
2004 Cuvée Rafalot, Côtes Catalanes
Deep young colour. Quite an elegant understated nose, with
some black fruit, and also on the palate, with a sweet note. Quite ripe and rounded, very characterful,
with an elegant finish. I think I liked
this best of the four, possibly because it was also the oldest.
2005 Cuvée Coste, Côtes Catalanes
A blend of Mourvèdre and Carignan. Deep colour.
Some spice on the nose, and some meaty viandé notes from the Mourvèdre. Quite a structured palate, quite rich and
dense, but with a certain mineral freshness.
Quite firm and structured with ripe fruit. Needs more ageing. How will it develop?
2009 Cuvée Inferno, Côtes Catalanes
Pure Grenache. Deep
young colour. Very dense ripe rich
nose. Very concentrated and ripe, with
supple tannins. Lots of chocolate fruit,
and almost port like with a sweet finish.
14.5⁰.
2008 Cuvée Inferno, Côtes Catalanes
Again pure Grenache. Quite
a dense rich nose, with some sweet rich fruit on the palate. Dense and ripe; supple and rich. Again almost port-like, but this is the
region that produces France’s answer to port. But I think I prefer my table wines drier.
2008 Cuvée Coyade, Côtes Catalanes Blanc
Macabeu, Grenache Blanc and Carignan Blanc. A little colour. Quite a full resinous
nose. Quite rich with herbal and mineral
notes on the palate. Good acidity and firm minerality,
with a dry oxidative note.
2007 Cuvée Coyade, Côtes Catalanes Blanc
Again Macabeu, Grenache Blanc and Carignan Blanc. I thought this was more elegant, with quite
firm minerality on both nose and palate.
And some lovely long fruit with good acidity on the palate. Very intriguing, with some ageing
potential. What a pity there is
virtually none left.
The wines are available Enmore Wine, the company that Simon
Stoye has set up in the UK in able to sell the wines.
Comments
Thank you