Chateau Chenaie
A cellar visit to meet the new generation. On my last visit to Château Chenaie in Caussiniojouls, I met Eric Chabert. This time my host was Eric’s son, Adrien, who joined the family estate in 2020 and he has a younger brother Gauthier who started work there in 2021. They are the 6th generation, The first generation worked for somebody else, and his son, Emile, bought some vines. Adrien’s grandfather, André decided to join the Faugères coop when that was created, but in 1994 his father took his vines out of the coop, and the two brothers, Eric and Cyril started making their own wine and are still involved with the estate. They have 40 hectares of vines in about 40 different plots, mostly around the village, and also some olive trees. So Adrien took me for a drive through his vines on a rather hot July afternoon.
For white wine they have Grenache Blanc, but have pulled up their Terret Blanc. It didn’t taste good, said Adrien, and Carignan Blanc does not appeal for the same reason. However, they are planting more Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. There are bush vines, with three, four or five branches, each with a chestnut post, with a density of two metres x 80 centimetres. They let the soil rest for eight years before replanting. And the average age of their vines is 35 years, but they do have some 100 year old Carignan Noir and Grenache Noir; but old Cinsault is not so productive.
The name of the estate, Chenaie, refers to the chênes verts or holm oaks, in their extensive areas of garrigues. Sheep provide fertiliser, one tonne per hectare. The average altitude of the vineyards is between 250 - 300 metres. And they have a small experimental vineyard of just 2500 plants in half a hectare of a PIWI variety, developed by Alain Bouquet, with the memorable name of 3179-90-7N! It is related to Grenache, with similar characteristics, but is more productive and ripens earlier. It was planted in 2022, with a twenty year commitment to see how it performs. If it doesn't work out, it will be pulled up.
Their vinification cellar is in heart of the village, a compact space with the usual stainless steel vats. Everything works by gravity and 90% of the crop is handpicked, with whole bunches checked on the sorting table. Their production is 90% red, and they also have a maturing barrel of Fine de Faugères which will be bottled soon.
Then we adjourned to their tasting caveau at the top of the village. You can peer down at barrels and a couple of amphora made from sandstone, which they are using for old Carignan. The building dates back to 966. It was a lookout post, and some of the old fortifications and walls of the village remain. Eric Chabert bought the château in 2000.
2024 Conviction Blanc - 7.40€
The name will become simply Château Chenaie Blanc for the 2025 vintage, with a new label showing the skyline of Caussiniojouls. 80% Roussanne with Rolle, or Vermentino. No oak ageing; no malo. Light colour. Fresh white flowers. Nicely rounded palate, with some fruit, and a joli amer on the finish. Youthful and structured.
Adrien studied in Montpellier, the classic BTS in viti-oenology and he spent a couple of months in New Zealand, hoping to learn some English and did a stage at Te Moto on Waiheke Island. An enthusiastic conversation about New Zealand ensured; he had managed to visit most of the best producers, Te Mata, Kumeu River, and he had particular enjoyed Central Otago, enthusing about Peregrine and Rippon. But his English hadn't seen much improvement!
2024 Les Douves Blanc
30% Viognier with 70% Roussanne. Fermentation and élevage for six months in wood. He works on the fines lees. Sometimes there is a malo, but not always. Lightly peachy nose. Nicely textured palate. A joli amer on the finish with acidity and a saline note. Ageing potential.
2025 Château Chenaie, Rosé - 7.40€
One third each of Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache. Pale colour. Light nose; delicate raspberry fruit. and on the palate quite rounded with a good balance and appealing texture and weight and good fruit.
2023 Orange Wine - 10.50€
50% each of Marsanne and Viognier. 15 days maceration on the skins. Kept in vat. Quite an orange colour. And some citrus on the nose. A firm tannic streak balanced with some fruit. Quite a long finish.
2025 La Goguette, Vin de France - 8.50€
The name refers to faire la fête, or faire la goguette….Pure Cinsault. Light colour. Very fresh nose and fresh red fruit. Very gouleyant. Supple tannins. The Cinsault was planted in the 1970s and yields are small, 15 - 20 hl/ha
2024 Château Chenaie Rouge - 7.40€
This is their best seller. Approximately a quarter each of Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvèdre, kept in vat. Medium depth of colour. Medium weight. Ripe fruit and spice. A hint of tapenade. Quite supple but with a streak of tannin. Easy drinking. And delicious!!
2024 Ceps d’Emile - 11.50€
Emile was Adrien’s great grandfather who bought their first vines. 100 year old Carignan with some maceration carbonic, and 12 months in amphora, with 20 % Cinsault, which is kept in vat. The amphora are grès, or sandstone, which is less porous than clay. They have been using them since 2019. Previously they used barrels. Medium colour. Fresh red fruit. Medium weight. Elegant, with a fresh nose and palate. Another delicious wine.
2022 Les Douves Rouge - 14.50€
70% Syrah grown on quite steep hillsides. with 15% each of Grenache and Mourvèdre. 12 months in old barrels. Deep colour. Ripe and oaky on both nose and palate. Quite sturdy vanilla. The barrels may not be new, but they are certainly making an impact on the flavour. It needs time.
And I quizzed Adrien about projects for the future, he talked about their olive trees and plans to develop wine tourism as they renovate the chateau. And they need to consider how to protect their vines from the current canicule - which sounds even hotter than a heatwave……
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