Chateau Sérame
I had not been to Château Sérame since 2010 when it was run by the bordelais négociants, Dourthe, so I was very pleased to have the opportunity to return and to see how things have changed, since the Exéa family ended the rental agreement in 2015.
This is one of the largest estates of the Languedoc, with a total of 130 hectares of vines, which are farmed organically, and certified with Demeter. They have both Minervois, which is farmed biodynamically and Corbières, with the Aude river dividing the two appellations, and they also make a range of IGP Oc and Vin de France. Anne Besse, née Exéa, showed us round and talked about her plans for the future. The Exéa family originally came from Aragon in the 13th century and they have owned the property since 1803. There is a rather sombre château, dating from 17th century which they are planning to restore, with an extensive park, and terraces going down to the river.
Then we looked at the cellar, a classic old Languedoc cellar with enormous concrete vats, going back to the days when the annual production was about 20,000 hls. These days it is nearer 6000hls. Some of the vats have been divided in two, and they have also invested in some stainless steel vats as well as new pneumatic presses. Most of the vineyards are mechanically harvested, with a sorting facility in the harvester, as well as a sorting table in the cellar. They pick at night beginning at about 3 a.m. and this year they were expecting to begin the harvest in early August, rather than mid-August. The ageing cellar has barrel, from several different coopers but also some amphora, both ceramic and clay, argille, which gives finer results than grès, or sandstone.
And then we settled down to a comprehensive tasting, with four different ranges, namely Pay d’Oc; Vin de France for a naturally lower alcohol level of 9%, which they achieve by picking early. They also use some resistant PIWI varieties. Then there are the entry level Corbières and Minervois and finally the more refined Corbières and Minervois.
2025 Petit Jardin Blanc, Vin de France 7.90€
A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and a PIWI, Soreli.
Lightly fruity, rounded and easy drinking with fresh acidity on the finish. 13%
2025 Sauvignon, Vin de France - 9.90€
Light and fresh. But not a great deal of varietal character. Dry finish. The picking date is crucial, and usually in early August.
You are apparently allowed 15% PIWI varieties in an IGP Oc. They usually only require about three treatments per years, as opposed to about eight for conventional vines. At Sesame they treat with copper sulphur.
A whiff of elderflower. Light Muscaty and a touch of Muscat bitterness on the finish. Muscaris is a cross between Muscat à petits grains and Solaris. 12%
2024 Blanc Sérame, Corbières Blanc. 17.90€
White wine accounts for 4% of the appellation of Corbières, but here at Sérame it is 40%, with 10% of gris grapes and 50% red. They have planted more white varieties on the old riverbed of the Aude, where there is very good drainage.
A blend of Grenache Blanc, 20% and 40% each of Roussanne, and Vermentino, Kept in both tank and barrel. A little colour. Good depth and texture, nicely rounded with satisfying mouthfeel. Quite a rich mouthful.
2023 Jardin des Corbieres - 10.90€
A blend of approximately 40% Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, with 20% Rolle. Aged in vat. Quite rounded and ripe and textured. Balanced with a supple finish.
2022 Carduelis, which translates as goldfinch, Corbières Blanc - 28.00€
A blend of Grenache, Roussanne and Rolle. 18 months in barrels of one, two and three fills. Quite golden, Young buttery fruit. Nicely rounded, harmonious and balanced with well integrated oak and a dry finish. None of the white wines undergoes a malo-lactic fermentation.
They use the Dubernet laboratory and Aymeric Izard, who used to work at the nearby Rothschild estate of Aussières, advises.
And now on to pink wines:
2025 Le Petit Jardin - 7.90€
50% Grenache Gris, 35% Cinsault and 15% Souvignier Gris. Pressurage directe. No malo.Very pale colour. Light raspberry fruit. Lightly fruity and fresh.
2025 Grenache Gris, Vin de France
They work on the lees to enhance the aroma. Light fruity. Noticeable acidity compared with the previous wine. Fresh dry finish. 9%
2025 Souvignier Gris
Pale colour. Light nose. Little more body and less acidity than the Grenache Gris. Dry finish.
And now for les choses serieuses, the reds…..
2024 Le Petit Jardin - 7.90€
Grenache, Syrah, Cinsaut. Vinified in stainless steel and concrete vats, to emphasise the fruit. And indeed it was ripe and fruity with supple tannins. Very glou glou, we agreed!
2023 Chant Libre, MInervois Nature. 22.00€
Their first attempt at a vin nature was the previous vintage, using indigenous yeast and no added sulphur except at bottling. 60% Grenache co-vinified with 40% Syrah. Quite a light colour, more Grenache than Sarah with supple red fruit. Very elegant and very Grenache. I liked it a lot. 14%
2024 Corbières, Lullula which is another name for a wood lark
No added sulphur, not even at bottling. Co-fermented Syrah and Grenache in equal parts. Only kept in vat, but it tasted quite sturdy as though it had been in oak, Confusing!! Ripe and gutsy and youthful, with a firm tannic streak. 14%
The soil between the two appellations at Sérame is very different, with more calcaire in the Corbieres and larger stones from the river valley. Also they use cultured yeast for the Corbières, so slightly different wine making.
2025 Jardin de Corbieres -10.90€
Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre, kept in stainless steel and concrete vats. Deep colour. Quite ripe red fruit. Quite rounded rich and full bodied with supple tannins resulting from a supple extraction. 14.5%
2023 Rouge Sérame Corbières - 17.90€
A blend of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache. 60% in vat and 40% in barrel for 12 months.
Deep colour. Quite a firm structured nose. and palate. Some leathery notes. Rounded spicy fruit and a tannic backbone. Ageing potential.
2024 Chant de Lune, Minervois - 17.90€
Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Biodynamically farmed. Medium bright colour. Elegantly peppery and very fresh. Good length and a lift on the finish.
An intriguing series of labels, a cyanotype, which apparently is a 1840s photographic process that uses sunlight and iron-based chemicals to create rich Prussian blue prints.
2023 Chant de Lumières, Minervois - 28.00€
A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Minervois kept for eighteen months in barriques and amphora. Good colour. Quite solid and rounded, ripe and dense. Peppery with supple tannins and a fresh finish. 14.5%
2022 Corbières, Oena, which is a touterelle masqué, or a masked turtle dove
A blend of Syrah, Carignan and Mourvèdre. aged half in amphora and half in barrel for 18 months. Deep colour. Quite a rounded ripe palate. Very dense and ripe. Very good fruit. Youthful tannins. Harmonious and balanced, with more warmth than the Minervois. 14.5 but the alcohol was well integrated. Rich and supple.
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